La Cambuse, Nice

Traditional niçoise fare in the middle of the flower market.

La Cambuse, 5 Cours Saleya, Nice Cote d'Azur, +33 (0)4 93 80 82 40,www.restaurantlacambuse.com; Lunch for two with wine: €90

In a ringside spot on the Cours Saleya, home of the famous Flower Market (daily except Mondays, when antiques replace the blooms), La Cambuse is an ideal place to sample some traditional Niçoise fare, best described as French-Italian fusion, and watch the world go by.

Service is efficient and friendly and the restaurant spotless. There's a comprehensive, good value table d'hôte menu - see the blackboard - offering Niçoise favourites such as petits farcis (tiny, delicious stuffed vegetables) andsoupe au pistou (a local version of minestrone, made with pesto) to start.

Daube à la Niçoise is a yielding slab of slow-cooked beef, best accompanied by a side order of excellent gnocchi - far more interesting than plain old potatoes. Fish lovers can enjoy uber-fresh sardines, served farcis (stuffed) or grilled, while vegetarians can opt for a salade chevre chaud (warm goat's cheese salad). A classic salad Niçoise, meanwhile, comes with tart, vinegary anchovies and fleshy black olives. Wash it all down with a carafe of local Provençal wine then order a crème brûlée, whose expertly fired surface crackle is perfectly primed to hit with the back of your spoon. Amélie would be delighted.

For a few more euros and a wider choice, you can opt for à la carte. The house speciality of filet de boeuf rossini (fillet steak topped with foie gras) is meltingly tender, and the gambas grillées ou Provençal (Provence-style giant shrimps) full of flavour and bite. Wines start at €12.50 per half bottle and €21.50 per bottle and the choice is impressive, if solely French (of course).

For dessert, bistro favourites such as tarte tatin, chocolate fondant, profiteroles and a light, zesty lemon meringue pie are beautifully executed. Children will love the comprehensive pizza menu too. At La Cambuse, much like Nice itself, there's something to please everybody.

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